The drive to Panthertown was pleasant. We left early to get a good start on the hike. Driving through the mountains is an interesting experience. At anytime you might see a rustic old log cabin setting on a mountain side in the middle of a yard full of mountain wildflowers, or you may see very modernistic house with a suburban manicured look. Or, you may see a place that is abandoned and overgrown with vines. Sometimes one will be next to the other. The mountains seem to be an equal opportunity housing authority.
There are a number of ways into Panthertown Valley and the one we took led us past some very expensive looking houses. There was even a helicopter pad at the base of one of the roads that led to the trailhead. There was room for several helicopters on it so we were wondering if we were in the right place. But we don’t give up easily so we kept driving and sure enough we found the trailhead at Cold Mountain Gap. There was a small parking lot with a few cars and a map kiosk with information. I glanced at the information map but since I had my own map I paid little attention to it.
The beginning of he trail was a nice path that did have an incline. It was quiet and the trail was soft to the booted foot. I love the smell of the forest. It is soft and sweet. I’m looking forward to the changes as the seasons cycle through their natural progression. I find these times with my wife to be very special. We don’t talk a lot but the closeness is strong. There is a serene feeling when we share silence together. She is so comfortable on the trail; while I love it, I do struggle with it at times.
Following our map we managed to find Schoolhouse Falls which is off the Panthertown Valley Trail on the Little Green Trail. The waterfall was beautiful, but I have as yet to see a waterfall that was not beautiful. There were a number of people there and as I started taking pictures Saskia started talking with them. She tends to be more outgoing than I am and much quicker to engage with others. Turns out they were part of a group learning wilderness techniques. The techniques are know as “Leave No Trace” and are about outdoor conservation ethics. I think it is pretty cool stuff.
After taking some photos we headed back to the Panthertown Valley Trail and back the way we came to catch the Devil’s Elbow Trail. It was my intention to follow the map and find Warden’s Falls, Jawbone Falls, Riding Ford Falls and Elbow Falls. We found the new trailhead with ease and started our trek.
The trail started out ok but as we put distance behind us it became more challenging. The trails here were defined, on our map, as being of several types. There are forest service trails which are easy to follow and are well defined. Then there are footpaths which are more narrow and may be a bit overgrown and not so easy to follow. And, then there are faint/cross country routes. As you can imagine they are the most difficult being, not well defined and hard to navigate.
The more we walked, the more challenging the path became and it always seemed to be uphill. We found what we believed to be the first waterfall on the list mentioned above. It was not a high fall but the water was fast coming over the first drop into a relatively calm pool which then became the head of a short second drop. We were able to sit on the rocks between the two drops and enjoy the sound of the rushing water, the warmth of the day and the peace that only nature can provide.
After a while we continued our journey. We walked and we walked. The path changed from a forest service trail to a footpath. At times it seemed impossible to see the trail. It was hot and we keep on walking. We were not able to find the next waterfall. At times we could hear the river and what sounded like a waterfall but it was not visible from the trail. Since leaving Schoolhouse Falls we were alone. We had the forest to ourselves.
After what seemed like many hours but was only a few, we decided to turn back. One thing I have learned is that if I have not reached my destination by a certain time of day then it is a good idea to go back. It can get really dark very fast in the mountains. Another thing I learned on this trip is the fact there is a huge difference between owning a map and understanding how to use it. Our goal had been to reach Elbow Falls and all we had been able to do was find the first one, or so I thought.
Another thing I learned is the value in knowing what to carry in the backpack. I was carrying several camera lens which added a lot of weight. I never used any but the one on my camera. What I pack in I have to pack out and except for food and water it does not get any lighter. I also had another lesson about hydration. Not while on the trail, but later that night I had severe muscle cramps. I realized it was from drinking very little water that day.
Finding the right backpack and the right amount of the right stuff to have with me is a process and I am still on the learning curve. I no longer carry all the camera equipment with me. If there is something that great that I need a different lens or setup I will come back prepared to take the shot. For now, I use what I have.
On our way back we stopped at the same waterfall and rested while enjoying the day. While pretty warm it was beautiful. With our batteries recharge we took off. We met a couple of guys hiking the trail. As we talked it became apparent, much to our surprise, that the waterfall we found was not the first one on the trail, but the one that was to have been our final destination. You could have knocked me over with a feather, I mean after all I did have a map!
We never found the other falls that day. We had hiked much further than we had planned and that explained how we had ended up on the footpath trails. The walk out was long and uphill. I was so tired. My pack was heavy and at times I thought I would just have to sit down and stay there a few hours until I was rested. But, the thought of the forest getting dark before I made my way out was motivation for me to keep on moving.
Saskia was a champ during this hike. She was patient, encouraging and helpful with me. Towards the end I even took her up on the offer she had been making to carry some of my equipment. It really did help. It is still difficult at times for me to accept help, but I am aware and growing in this area.
We have not been back to Panthertown Valley again but it is on our list to do. I learned a lot that day about my self, hiking, backpacking, hydration and my wife. I plan to be better prepared the next time and as a matter of fact I have been making adjustments on each hike since then.
On, and by-the-way, the trail was uphill going in and uphill coming out. Who would have thought!